The tamale is recorded as early as 5000 BC, possibly 7000 BC in Pre-Columbian history. Initially, women were taken along in battle as army cooks to make the masa for the tortillas and the meats, stews, drinks, etc. As the warring tribes of the Aztec, Mayan, and Incan cultures grew, the demand of readying the nixtamal (corn) itself became so overwhelming a process, a need arose to have a more portable sustaining foodstuff. This requirement demanded the creativity of the women…hence the tamale was born. 

The tamale is a staple food in the Mississippi Delta. It grew in popularity in the early 1900s when Mexican farm workers introduced it to Black workers in the cotton fields in the deep south.

OK…now I’ve told you all I’m going to about tamales and their heritage in Mississippi. Now, can anyone tell me how to properly eat a tamale? Just comment below. I’ll try your method, and if your method proves my favorite, you can tell me your method of coaxing someone into telling you the best way to eat a tamale!

Photo: Tamales Stand - Yazoo City, MS - January of 2006

Doe’s Eat Place was established in Greenville, MS in 1941 by Dominick “Doe” Signa and his wife Mamie. At first, Signa ran a juke joint in the front part of the store. It was strictly for African Americans. He sold things like buffalo fish and chili. Ironically, the “carriage” trade arrived by the back door. I guess one might call it segregation in reverse.  One of the local doctors began coming for a meal between house calls. Big Doe would cook him up a steak and feed him in the back. Pretty soon, the doctor brought another doctor, then a lawyer, and before he knew it, Doe has a regular restaurant in the back of the building.

Dining at Doe’s, at first, can be a daunting experience. It’s a scary old building in a scary old part of town. You have to traverse your way through the kitchen first, then hope to find a table. But fear fades to folly when that 2 pound t-bone is served up. It’s the consummate eclectic Mississippi dining experience. Now, I’m really not prone to hyperbole when it comes to eateries. But until someone can prove me wrong, I suspect this place serves the best steaks anywhere. The steaks are broiled to order. There is no menu. You get steak, and if you’re polite, you get fresh home fries and a salad. And, of course, sweet tea. I strongly suggest you have an appetizer of tamales…the old guys called them “red hots”.

Bring a strong appetite. But also bring your wallet. Trust me, you’ll need it. You’ll pay, but you won’t be inclined to complain. These folks have learned how to cook a steak properly. They’ve also perfected the art of turning a sow’s ear into a silk purse, while convincing a good ole’ boy (or better yet, a Yankee) to pay out the wazoo for the experience. The Doe’s have come a long way from a juke joint, and somewhere along the way, they hired a good accountant…

Photo: Doe’s Eat Place - Greenville, MS - January of 2006